Some snaps of what we've been doing lately

A busy day at Balboa Park

We drove to the Mexican border but escaped just before being trapped in the hours-long lines which also happened to lead to the outlet malls close by. This was black friday and the highways were clogged.

Bird watching at Famosa wetlands where we saw the common (not to us) and hilariously-named Ruddy Duck! Not one was willing to  show his bright sky blue beak for the camera!

Mission San Diego de Acala - the first mission built by the Spanish on the Camino Real. 

Hunchback and Torrey Pines

At the last minute, a ticket became available for the sold-out production of The Hunchback of Notre Dame. In an hour, I was changed and delivered to the front door of La Jolla Playhouse, a professional, regional theatre started in 1947 by Gregory Peck.  

Victor Hugo's story of the deformed bell ringer and the gypsy was written in a successful attempt to save the medieval gothic Notre Dame Cathedral from piecemeal destruction. The tragedy is well-suited for a musical format. This is the premiere of a darker version of the Disney movie. It began with an amazing transformation. The lead actor strode onto the stage and with two swipes of paint across his face and a lump tied to his back, a twisted and agonized Quasimodo emerged. The emotional music was reminiscent of Les Miserables, the singing and acting superb. The stage setting of the Notre Dame bell tower was dominated by six huge bells that pealed with anger and emotion more than once. I was in heaven! 

Bill in the meantime, checked out Torrey Pines Golf Course, site of the US Open - he has big plans for the new year!

Moving day and the internet works here!

It’s moving day! We have had to move a few spots over in order to stay in the park. We only managed to get this spot after asking nicely a few times - were originally told that they were sold out. This spot is less than desirable - two feet from the snack bar but it turns out that is that it is the best spot for internet so we’re fine with that. We don’t spend any time around the park anyway - are gone pretty early and fall back home at end of day. The next few days might be different though. It is the Thanksgiving weekend. 

Thanksgiving is huge down here. Warnings on the radio speak of 25% increase of traffic over the worst of normal. We feel like we have to get in supplies, make errand runs and then hunker down and watch! Although we are going out for Thanksgiving with our niece and her family - will give ourselves lots of time.  

The next big traffic day is Friday - Black Friday - when shoppers travel in droves for the amazing sales. I understand Christmas starts Friday as well....

Museum of Man (and Lucy!)

Back to Balboa yesterday to see museums we haven't visited yet. We chose one of our favourites - Museum of Man. One of the best things about these museums is the docents. They are well-trained and/or experts in the area being exhibited. We had interesting and informative conversations with a fellow who studies the applications of genome research the other day and this time with a fellow who recently completed his doctorate in Anthropology and is specializing in the cultural habits of early man. So what did Lucy do for fun? We spent a couple of hours in the exhibit and learned so much! Ask me sometime what I remember!

Lucy. 3.5 million years old. That I should look so good!

A few pictures

Bridge from San Diego to Coronado Island

Hotel on Coronado 

View of Coronado Island from Cabrillo viewpoint

Organist with assistant dividing lines of music 

Sunday, an emotional day - part 2 - the high

We drove to Balboa Park and arrived just in time to hear the Sunday concert with the Speckels Pipe Organ. The setting is an amphitheatre and the organ is the largest outdoor pipe organ in North America. The Organist, obviously a virtuoso, played a variety of pieces to show off the range of the amazing instrument. Sitting outside on a beautiful summer day listening to the heavenly music made me very nostalgic. The morning had reminded us of Dad and his self-educated love for nature and gift in passing it on to us, and Mum, whose 101st birthday would have been yesterday, filled me with emotion as I listened to the heavenly organ music. 

We ended the day, sitting on the beach, watching Egrets, herons and a pelican fill up before dark hit. The sunset was spectacular as always. 

Sunday - an emotional day - part 1, the low

Drove to Silverwood conservation center for a guided tour of the riparian oak woodlands. Bill and I were the only ones there so we had the privilege of a personal tour with the manager of Silverwood, who, after 20 years of living on the property, is an expert in this specific ecosystem His papers bring scientists calling to see first hand the results of his research. It was an emotional experience hearing his first-hand story of a devastating fire in 2003 that resulted in 15 deaths in the valley. The woodlands along with his home and all of his collections were destroyed. His focus was then to look at the impact of the fire on the ecosystem that ironically requires fire to thrive. 

The result of the research shows that this man-made fire, starting just as the Santa Ana wind came down the valley, was so hot, layers of stones with centuries-old grinding slabs close to ancient native sites cracked and disintegrated. The plants have been attempting to do their natural revival since then but now two new enemies - both with devastating effect: the three-year drought and the excessive use of ground water by a neighbouring orchard and a casino has drained the aquifers (65,000 gallons a day). The underground water that keeps the Coast Live Oak (ironic name) alive while there is a drought, has now dropped far below their root system. At least 12 centuries-old oaks are dead and as we walked through the forest, our guide pointed out shrubs and other native species that are dying - new dead bushes each time he walks the trails. This is an ecosystem that grows like the arctic - such severe conditions, it takes centuries for replacement.
Our guide wondered if he is supposed to talk about this - said people want him to be positive. But he said it is hard to be positive when you are watching the world around you dry up and die.  

Out and about on a Saturday

First stop the Visions Art Museum to look at a juried exhibition of innovation in quilting and surface design. It was housed in a heritage site, formerly the location of a naval training site, now the home of arts and culture organizations in Spanish revival buildings. 

Next, a tour of the WWII aircraft carrier, Midway. My one clear thought at the end of a few hours of winding our way up and down and through the enormous ship is that you did not want to be one of the poor souls who kept the steam engines running in the bowels of the ship. This was in 1945 but the conditions seemed medieval to me. The carrier’s size is impossible to come to terms with yet a newer one to be completed next year will dwarf this one.  

It was still daylight so on a whim, we drove over the huge bridge that connects Coronado Island to San Diego, went for a walk on the famous hotel grounds and beach, had the best hamburger we’ve probably ever had, then dropped into a charming Art Deco movie house to watch a movie. 

Friday - Legoland and traffic!

Drove up to Carlsbad to check out Legoland. Following advice from the staff, we bought a shoppers pass for 160 bucks and entered the grounds. After checking out the hotel, the first section of Legoland, and the lego shop, we walked back out the gates within the required hour and got our money back. A grandchild would be required to make a day pass worthwhile!

Our drive home was a full-on taste of rush hour traffic. We were once again amazed at the multi-laned highways filled with cars moving in all directions. We’ve read about the history of transportation choices in San Diego. It seems to be as much of a car culture as Los Angeles. Huge overpasses and on- and off-ramps dwarf the surroundings. The normal speed, even in bumper to bumper is 65 mph (110km). It feels like a serious form of Dodge-em with cars moving back and forth in the never-ending search for the fastest lane. Motorcycles play their own game of chicken, driving up white dotted lines between lanes, then dodging into spaces. Friday at 4:30 was probably the worst.

Closed for weekend.

Blog is closed for weekend - next posting Sunday.

Try it!

Natural History Museum

We only took in the top floor of the Natural History Museum - much more to see another day.
The exhibit on skulls is part of the permanent collection. Skulls ranging from Anna hummingbirds to elephants.

African lion!

Air and space museum

The permanent exhibit follows the history of aviation. The museum is huge - took us all morning to walk around from balloons and Wright brothers through wars and up to space exploration. Another example of just scratching the surface...

Apollo Nine space capsule

You can see the scorched bottom following entering the earth's atmosphere.

Museum hop continues

Cooler day today and big black cloud threatened rain but dissipated before fulfilling promise.
We did more museum hopping today - air and space museum this morning and Natural History this afternoon. The air/space museum had featured an unlikely exhibit of Ripley's believe it or not. I was jumpy after it was over - not sure just what ghastly thing was going to be around the corner. I did everyone a favour by not photographing the human skin-covered ceremonial headgear, the shrunken heads, the eyeball stretching guy not the other human contortionists. Some things were interesting but most had a distinctly weird feel to them - kind of like circus days of decades ago.

Picture made out of dryer lint! I kid you not.

Space shuttle made from recycled keys from computer keyboards.

DNA, surf boards and architecture

So began our education. We are on day one of our 14 museum adventure. We’ve bought annual passes to Balboa Park so can now drop in and out of museums whenever we want. We hope to return to SD next year and will spend more time here. We love the atmosphere of the gardens, the over-the-top Spanish-Renaissance style buildings, the world-class museums, and the dedicated and knowledgeable docents. 

Spanish Renaissance Architecture in Balboa Park, created in 1915 for exposition celebrating building of Panama Canal

This morning, we made our heads hurt in the Genome project but emerged invigorated and amazed at what we learned. We are going back. After lunch at a table outside, we spent a couple of hours in my favourite museum, The Mingei. It celebrates the art of the people around the world as demonstrated by the current exhibits. The main floor featured an amazingly beautiful display of surf boards - their history, design and culture. Second floor featured In the Realm of Nature - weaving and woodturning - a breath-taking exhibit of talent. The third exhibit featured three architects known for their organic approach. The results stand alone as sculptures. 

Historical collection of 'rudders' from surf boards

Wallace Cunningham, Las Tarrazas, Mexico

Getting organized...

We visited Balboa Park today - our favourite place in San Diego. We've bought passes and will return regularly to visit the fourteen museums. Had lunch at the Japanese Garden but then left to travel to La Jolla (hoya) to buy a ticket for Hunchback of Notre Dame - it has had rave reviews. Stopped in to Tourist Info for maps, things to do, etc. We now have enough on our calendars to keep us happily busy. 

Walked around the peninsula the RV park is located on at sunset. Saw only one pelican and a few curlews. The sunsets are fabulous - expect we'll take hundreds of pictures before the trip is over. 

Not very clear - taken after dark. This lovely guy is about the size of a chicken!

Mission Dam built by natives under the direction of the Spanish to provide water for the missions in early 1800's.

We are at the beginning of El Camino Real (the royal highway), the route followed by Spanish Catholics setting up missions. The first one is here in San Diego and the last in Sonoma. We've seen these bells all the way down Highway 101. 

No internet? Find a cool Coast Live Oak to sit under.

So the internet has been down and we've learned once again how dependent we are on it. Have tried to book some events but the only way is online! Anyway, internet is back up and we've also found a place next to the Snack Shack that is fast - so you'll know where to find me - late at night, in my pi's, sitting under the thatched roof and typing away!

Don't sit here!! 

We did get online enough Saturday night when we arrived to find out about guided walks sponsored by the Museum of Natural History. Yesterday morning we headed out to Mission Valley to hike the four-mile Oak Canyon starting at the Mission Dam. It was perfect temperature when we set out - 19 degrees and didn't get much above 23 but it was hot and dry in the canyon unless we were standing under the "Coast Live Oaks" that had historically provided the native people with a cool living space close to water. We were following a stream bed but only saw one tiny pool of water the whole way. Our guide was a trained volunteer who also had a biology degree so we learned lots! We were divided into groups - ours a small group of six interesting women and one friendly male:-) Bill had to defend his gender more than once as we were introduced to 'lots of sex' in the botanical world!
Today is catch-up day. Laundry, truck maintenance, odds and ends. There is a cool ocean breeze blowing - not the Santa Anna forecasted. We'll wander down to Mission Bay before sunset tonight to watch the pelicans and assorted birds come in for the night.

San Diego finally!

So we are now settled in San Diego. The RV park is in downtown San Diego - a spit surrounded by the ocean - quiet and mellow. We are surrounded by huge rigs with people obviously here for a while - tables, chairs set up outside and sounds of children in the background - sounds like summer. The temperature today was 20 degrees - comfortable with a bit of a breeze. Perfect for us. We're booked here for two weeks and will decide whether to stay longer or go somewhere else before our trek home.

The green ends at the fence.

We spent yesterday travelling. Decided to make a run for it! We started in San Francisco and ended up in San Clemente at 10:30 pm pulling into a dark state park and waking up to views of the ocean!
It was a sobering day of travel through southern California. We passed mile after mile of brown fields and hills. Four years of severe drought is having a serious impact and the rolling hills now look like golden sand dunes. (We watched Lawrence of Arabia the other night!) The only green we saw were the fields of almond trees - watered by ribbons of bright blue canals. Large and native trees bordering the almond groves are in the process of dying - bent and broken with giant pick-up-sticks of large branches at their base. Signs dot the highways blaming politicians and warning of loss of food and loss of jobs. The rare, slightly green field made us think they’ve had some rain until we noticed that the green ends at the fence line.
Makes me glad we have access to local farms - expect it will become more important all the time. 

San Francisco by cable car and foot!

Cable car climb

Looking back down

Grant Street, China Town

Dim Sum at the Grant Place!

Two blocks that way...

 It was foggy this morning when we walked to the ferry terminal and took the 30-minute Larkspur ferry from Marin to downtown San Francisco. We passed the formidable San Quentin and, later, Alcatraz was a ghostly shadow on the other side. Alcatraz was the only prison in its time to allow hot showers for prisoners. They didn't want them acclimated to the cold water.
We arrived at the terminal on the embarcadero and bought a day pass for transportation, then walked over to wait for a cable car. We could have just spent our day riding them. The steep hills, the devoted drivers and the reactions of people both on and off the cars, made it the best entertainment going.
We were dropped off with China Town apparently "Right over there!" And that made clear the one disadvantage of doing walk-abouts in San Francisco. Climb-abouts is more like it!! "Just two blocks that way." is a scary set of instructions when you realize how much of a climb two blocks will be. And the trouble is, when you realize people are just being helpful without really knowing where you want to go, two blocks in the other direction is, amazingly, another steep climb. SF is built on eight hills and the ups and downs are random and cruel! Oh well, we found China Town and spent time enjoying the streets, browsing the shops and eventually eating lunch. That simple-sounding event involved a hilarious conversation with a shop owner who we think was suggesting the Green Palace two blocks that way on Washington. More conversations and laughter with other locals sent us in other directions until, a marathon of climbing later, we ended up at Grant Place - great dim sum, favoured by the locals, all the criteria the original lady promised - we think!
The weather cleared and the sun came out and we spent the rest of the day moving from location to location, riding trolley buses. Joined the ferry cue with the commuters and snoozed the way home like them!

San Francisco - still fabulous after all these years!

The last time we were in San Francisco was 34 years ago! We loved it then and wondered if we still would. Yes! But like so many fabulous places it could only be well-served if you find an apartment and stay awhile. This time we will just manage to brush the surface but even that is thrilling.
Today we drove in to reconnoitre. We are staying in Marin County so stopped to view the famous bridge from a hillside before crossing into San Francisco. We then spent the rest of the day following a self-directed 49-mile drive around the city. We stopped often so our tour ended when the sun set and we headed for Fisherman's Wharf for the requisite Clam Chowder in a sour-dough bowl.

Tomorrow we'll take the ferry in, hop on a cable car, and head up to China Town. Rain is forecast but it is needed badly so we won't let it stop us.

Golden Gate Bridge

Rodin's Thinker in the courtyard of the Legion of Honor

Sour-dough bowls of Chowder

Sonoma Valley - wine, chocolates and sweet potato pie!

We started our day by driving through the vineyards of Sonoma Valley, birthplace of California wine country. Known for “crisp chardonnays, dry Rieslings and fruit-forward pinot noirs”. Beautiful right now with vines turning colour. 
Stopped in Glen Ellen to sample Wine Country Chocolates. Best known for their truffles. We sampled today’s special ganache - divine - and watched the hand-making of chocolates. Didn’t escape without a few treats. Unfortunately there are no preservatives in them so they have to be eaten quickly!
This is also Jack London territory. We saw his Dawson City home in June and now are in the region where he lived most of his life. His huge ranch was donated to the county and is now a state park in the middle of wine country. 

Then on to Sonoma, a charming town that is the epicenter of California history. Twenty-five cent version: This is where the Bear Revolution occurred - a group of renegades who tried to create an independent country centered in Sanoma. It lasted 14 days but the grizzly bear of their flag is still on the California state flag. Did you know that the reason for the Spanish missions was two-fold? Bringing Catholic religion to native population but also a political motive of stopping Russian advancement down coast of what is now California. We scratched our heads the other day when we crossed the Russian River. 

Mission in Sonoma

Pomegranates, olives and quince growing in the mission garden

Ended our day in Petaluma tracking down Petaluma Pies - came home with meat pies and Sweet Potato pie - today’s special. We’re eating it as soon as we check our email and head home…

Staying put...

We decided this morning to stay in Santa Rosa for a few days and see more of the surroundings as well as make day trips into San Francisco. Feels good to stay put. We did 'normal' things today like laundry and grocery shopping. We're now good to go for a while. After lunch we returned to the historic center and browsed our way through the amazing, Whistlestop Antiques - "10,000 sq ft of eclectic and fascinating treasures." Ad wasn't exaggerating! There is a sample of virtually everything old here for sale. We window-shopped until we felt like antiques too!
We are finished our lattes and are off to walk the trails of the Laguna Wetlands Preserve. It is 20 degrees today - a lot cooler than yesterday and perfect in our minds.

Whistle Stop Antiques

Ground is so dry at Laguna Wetlands, it is cracking. 

Sun setting across Laguna Wetlands